We are a local building and carpentry company based in Weston super mare covering North Somerset our building team is led by a fully qualified and insured Carpenter and made up of skilled Bricklayers, Joiners, Roofers and fascia fitters.
Our building and carpentry services are listed below and linked to other pages on my site providing more detailed information about Loft conversion, Roofing, Fascia, Guttering, Sash window repair and Mobility services.
How to stop condensation in the bathroom and kitchen.
If you can't leave the window ajar or wipe the window with kitchen towel (especially after a bath). Find a spare plastic pot with holes in the lid. Fill the lids with a bag of crystals (washing soda crystals), which are extremely hygroscopic, cheap and attract water. The pots will attract a lot of the moisture in the room. Place it on the window sill and empty the pot as it fills up with water.
How to fix a sticking door.
A sticking internal door can de caused by your house gradually settling over time causing slight changes in the alignment of the door frame. Loose hinges, new thick carpet or simply a badly hung door, can all cause doors to stick, making it difficult to open or close a door.
Fixing is easy, requiring only a few basic carpentry tools, screw driver, drill, hand plane or sandpaper and maybe a saw.
When a door sticks in the frame (jamb) around the door. If it is sticking on the top of the door, on the lock side of the door, remove the screws from one side of the top hinge. Pad out the hinge with a piece of thick cardboard and re screw the hinge. This will move the lock side of the door down a bit, away from the frame.
Sometimes, the weight of the door together with continual use can cause the screws to come loose. Causing the door to hit the frame on the lock edge near the top. Try to tighten the screws, but if they just spin in place, try longer screws.
If the longer screws still don't reach the solid wood. Drill small holes over the old screw holes and fill with wood filler. While it is drying, screw the screws partly in to give you a start when fixing the hinges back on.
If the screws are tight, but the door still rubs on the top of the door. Try deepening the top hinge.
Remove the hinge, and with a sharp chisel remove a fine layer of wood from the bottom of each mortise and re screw the hinge. Removing to much will cause the door to bind on the jamb at the hinge.
Or shave the top of the door. No need to take the door off, look for where it is sticking and plane or sandpaper that bit of the door. Be careful not to shave to much off.
If the door sticks at the bottom on the new carpet you will have to remove the door by unscrewing the hinges or better still, if you can. Remove the door from the door frame by pulling the pins from the hinges.
Place a small nail in the bottom of the hinge and hit it with a hammer to loosen the pin. Depending how much you need off you may get away with sanding/shaving the bottom or you may need to borrow a carpenter's circular saw.
The saw blade can splinter the door face as the cut is made. However, you can prevent this with masking tape and by clamping a piece of plywood along the line you have marked out. The tape will stop splintering and the plywood will act as a guide for the saw. If you have still got fingers left don't forget to seal the bare wood you have exposed.
If door is still sticking get rid of the new carpet or if you live in the Bristol or Weston call in a carpenter.
Quick fix tip for a sticking doors. If the door just rubs, take a piece of sandpaper. Put it on the bit of floor where the door catches and move the door back and forth over the sandpaper til it does not stick any more.
How to take up the old carpet and go back to floor boards DIY tips
What's under your carpet ? If your house was built in the 30s or before, you will probably find a good wooden floor.
Hanging your own wallpaper DIY tips
Got plenty of patience, like DIY? Can take a week of work? Can afford to pay for a holiday for your wife and kids? Always read instructions on packets? OK READ ON
The first thing you need to do
before you can start decorating your walls. Work out the number of rolls of wallpaper are needed. Measure the height and width of the walls or ceiling to get the area. You will need more of patterned wallpaper as you will need to match the patterns. If you are not sure how to work out how much wallpaper you need, take your measurements along to your D.I.Y and they will work it out for you.
Before you start
hanging the wallpaper, scrape of all old wallpaper, fill any cracks or holes in the walls. You can line the walls first with Lining paper especially if the walls have been painted with gloss or oil based paint. This is hung in the same way as wallpaper. How to strip wallpaper tips further down.
Make sure the electricity is turned off , remove fittings before wall papering so the wallpaper can be cut below the fitting. Looks neater
Now the fun bit
measure and cut lengths of wallpaper ready for pasting. Choose a paste containing fungicides they are necessary to hang vinyl and washable wallpapers. Following the instruction on the packet, mix the paste to the correct thickness, Start pasting by lying the lengths of paper face down on a table. Brush the paste from top to bottom and taking it as close to the edges of the wallpaper as possible, making sure you spread the paste evenly. If you get paste on the front of the paper. Wash it off immediately.
Wallpaper the ceiling first
starting at a wall with a window. If you are using patterned wallpaper make sure the pattern is facing the right way up. When using wallpaper with a design start from the centre of the wall. Cut the paper so that a whole motif is visible at the top of the wall. Some people mark out guidelines to line up the lengths of wallpaper, but if you get the first roll to run parallel the rest will follow.
Brush the paste onto the wallpaper and fold the lengths in a concertina style, when the paper is soaked drape it over your arm and start hanging the wallpaper. Hold the paper up using a soft broom or similar and unfold the wallpaper and position it, . Now slide the wallpaper into position and smooth out any bubbles with a damp sponge or a paper hangers brush. At the end of each run. Leave an overlap of just over a 1/2 inch. When you have the wallpaper is in position. Use a Stanley knife to cut off the overlap, then stick down the edges and wipe off surplus paste with a damp sponge. Continue until the entire ceiling or wall is covered with wallpaper.
Textured ceiling paper
often requires a coat of paint following application. For best results use a vinyl paint or silk emulsion. Test silk emulsions on a small area before painting as some can cause a chemical reaction with certain types of wallpaper.
There is an easier way (well a bit easier) Use Pre-pasted Wallpaper, Just soak and hang, ask your decorating materials shop.
How to strip wallpaper
Stripping wallpaper tips
The first step in redecorating is stripping the old wallpaper off, a horrible job, but these tips may make it a bit easier. The method for stripping wallpaper is basically the same for whatever type of wallpaper is being stripped, warm water and washing up liquid or steam. Patterned and plain wallpapers should come of easily using water and washing-up liquid. Leave the warm water to soak in for about half an hour and then starting from the top (it is less messy that way and you can run water down the wall if you hit a difficult bit) use scrapper to scrape the wallpaper off.
Emulsion painted wallpapers will be a bit tougher so rough up the surface before sponging on the water and washing up liquid.
Washable and other painted wallpapers can be hard going with water, roughing up the surface will help, but you will be better off hiring a steamer.
Vinyl wallpapers have a top layer which should just peel off leaving the backing paper. You can wallpaper over this if it is not damaged or strip it with water. Try to get hold of as wide a strip of vinyl as possible. It saves a lot of time. If you can pull off large pieces if it is tending to get narrower as you pull it, try pulling it sideways.
Quick tips if you can't be bothered to read the stripping wallpaper tips above. Protect the flooring and any furnishings in the room. Using plastic sheeting covered with newspaper or old curtains to stop any water soaking the carpet or going through the floorboards. Have a bin or some carrier bags ready to put the soggy wallpaper in. Roughing up the surface helps the wallpaper absorb the water or steam. Special tools are available. However, scratching the surface with a course sandpaper will do the trick. Apply plenty of warm water and washing-up liquid with a sponge about 30 minutes before stripping. If the wallpaper is particularly hard to remove hiring a steam machine is the only answer. Just follow the instructions.
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